Friday, July 9, 2010

Noce's Pizzeria - The Best New York-Style Pizza in Cincinnati

It seems like I've been a little down on Cincinnati pizza in my last few reviews. So, now I'll turn to a place that I can give an unqualified positive review: Noce's Pizzeria.

Noce's (No-che's) was founded by several New Yorkers (from Syracuse...) a few years back. They opened their first location on North Bend in Cheviot, next to an old laundrymat in a stripmall. They've since added two more locations in Montgomery and Erlanger. I'm glad to see them succeeding as they serve one of the best pizzas in Cincinnati. I have been several times (go figure...) to Cheviot and the newer Montgomery location, and as a result this is a bit of a composite review.

First the appetizers... It's surprisingly a little tough to find a place that serves good garlic knots in Cincinnati. Noce's in an exception to this. They make a mean knot. For those not in the know, garlic knots are a simple appetizer - pizza dough, garlic, butter, and oregano. Here are some of Noce's Garlic Knots con Marinara:

They are quite good. However, as with any great pizzeria, the reason to visit Noce's is for the pizza. They serve New York style pizza and do so by the slice if you want. As I'm not afraid to look funny snapping photos of food with my iPhone, I've taken shots of several of these pizzas over the last year or so.


Four Cheese (Garlic & oil, mozzarella, ricotta, provolone, romano cheese):

Pepperono and Feta Cheese:

Hot & Spicy (Hot Sausage, Capicola, Jalapeno Peppers, Banana Peppers):
By and large, I believe the key to good pizza is the crust. And, in order to have great crust, you must make it from fresh dough. Many of the places I've visited recently don't do this, which is unfortunate as it really is a requisite for a good pizza. Thankfully, they do make the dough fresh here. The crust is traditional New York-style. It is thin and a little but not too crisp (you can still fold the slices). While it's thin, it is still able to support the plentiful ingredients. So, the pizza is not sloppy. The crust is a little chewy, but again not too. I would say it's most similar to Dewey's.

The pizza is cut into the traditional eight slices. There's a good amount of cheese on the pizza. There's not as much sauce as some places. But, it's good sauce - a little sweet and spicy - but those tastes are rather mild. The toppings were all pretty good. ...The feta cheese doesn't have as strong of a taste as you wouldn't get at Dewey's. Overall, the pizzas here work very well. The straight pepperoni was very good. However, I'd say they best I had were the two specialty pizzas: The Hot & Spicy and Four Cheese.

For a desert, the cannoli here is quite good. They serve it topped with chocolate chips and syrup. At $2.99, it's definitely worth a try:

This is a pizzeria that I highly recommend. Their location on North Bend is an absolute hole-in-the-wall - There are only 6 tables, no server, and one old TV resting on a chair (on which I watched part of World Series). However, they're very friendly and the pizza is definitely worth it. As Tyler Cowen has noted, the best restaurants are often found in stripmalls, where rents are low and there's more space economically to try something interesting. ...The Montgomery location is a little nicer - with a waiter, flat-screens, and (crucially) fountain drinks with free refills. Eat at either location. This is a great pizzeria and in my opinion the best example of New York-style pizza in Cincinnati.

There's a lot of mediocre New York-style pizzerias in Cincinnati. Noce's is not one of these, and is better than all but a few in New York.

Noce's Pizzeria on Urbanspoon


  1. I go to the Montgomery location a lot. I love their rolls also. The pepperoni roll is the best! I love their sausage pizza also.

  2. Yea, I've probably been a half dozen time and everything I've had there has been pretty good.


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